Shock of shocks - due to a foot infection, John Bell drops out of the trip on medical advice. He'll do anything to avoid this!
So, its down to me and Geoff Brookes!
Thursday 9th May 2013
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We drove in Geoff's van to Stansted, ate a hearty breakfast and took the Ryanair flight FR372 to Biarritz. Thick cloud and rain as we approach Biarritz and we were given an early indication that the weather for our
arrival was not all it could be when our pilot for the day was forced to ‘go
around again’ successfully landing at the second attempt, not only on the
runway but at the correct airport, Email contact@aubergedupelerin.com Website www.aubergedupelerin.com
Day 1 - Friday 10th May 2012
We were up at 06:00, dressed and had a light breakfast (mostly bread, jam and lots of coffee) and a good chat with our fellow walkers.Our journey started, as ever with but a single step i.e. at cock
crow on Friday
Despite the weather we made good progress, spending the first two hours on tarmac road and then climbing We had originally planned to stop at the Refuge Orisson but we reached this at about 09:30 and made the immediate decision to push on. More climbing to the Col de Lepoeder was ahead of us before the short downhill section led us gratefully in
When we got to the refuge for the night and dumped our stuff, the sun did come out, so we showered quickly and then went for a beer, very tired. Dinner at 19:00 which was basic but good for 10 euro and in a great setting.
Day 2 - Saturday 11th May 2013
Slightly
sore and stiff we emerged into the dawn light for our second stage at 06:30. It
was clear that, as in the words of Anfield
faithful, we would ‘never walk alone’ such is the popularity of the camino.
After a short three kilometres breakfast was gratefully taken in Burguete. As
the day progressed the weather improved warming the bones and serving as a
reminder as to where Geoff’s hat was. Back at the breakfast stop! It was a much warmer day and we had an easy walkdown through wooded valleys and forrested hillsides.Feet are Ok but the downhill is taking its toll on the knees. We met some Dutch walkers who thought I was Dustin Hoffman, so I obliged them with a photo with them and my autograph.
Following
advice from experienced pilgrims we soon booked into our second stop at Zubiri,
a mere 21 km (13 miles) travelled today but 28.5 miles in total.
We enjoyed a great meal with lots of wine with quite a buzz with the numbers of walkers with us. All nationalities - Japanese, Latvians Korean, Chinese etc etc.
We enjoyed a great meal with lots of wine with quite a buzz with the numbers of walkers with us. All nationalities - Japanese, Latvians Korean, Chinese etc etc.
Day 3 - Sunday 12th May 2013
Fortified
by the previous evenings Pilgrims menu and Vino Tinto at 3 euro a
 |
| Route for Running the Bulls |
21km (13
miles) went by in a blur as we were now gaining match fitness.
We arrived in Pamplona at about 13:00 but I still feel as though it was a much harder walk as my right big toe was giving me trouble. The weather was dull and overcast with a temperature of around 12 C. Pamplona is a beautiful old city and we traced the route of running the bulls, wishing that we could see the event sometime.
The overnight
stop with beers and tapas enabled us to keep in touch with the many friends we had already made from
around the world in the first three days. We've been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the accommodation and the municipal albergue in Pamplona was also very good - mixed bunkhouse. Total distance 67km (41.5miles)
We arrived in Pamplona at about 13:00 but I still feel as though it was a much harder walk as my right big toe was giving me trouble. The weather was dull and overcast with a temperature of around 12 C. Pamplona is a beautiful old city and we traced the route of running the bulls, wishing that we could see the event sometime.
 |
| Old entrance to Pamplona |
The overnight
stop with beers and tapas enabled us to keep in touch with the many friends we had already made from
around the world in the first three days. We've been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the accommodation and the municipal albergue in Pamplona was also very good - mixed bunkhouse. Total distance 67km (41.5miles)
Day 4 - Monday 13th May 2013
The early arrival yesterday enabled us to sample the delights of
The uphill walk in poppies and wheatfields to Alto del Perdon was all in glorious sunshine. We were greeted at the stop by the hum of wind turbines and a sculpture instantly recognised as featuring in the film ‘The Way’ The view from the top going some way to make up for the low clouds on day one. We swept downhill to complete our days walk at Puerta La Reina by early afternoon. Feeling smug that we were travelling better than the young folk and being without any blisters.
I'm meeting some interesting people and have already had my photo taken and given my autograph to several people, signed Dustin Hoffman!!
There were storks nesting in roofs here, swallows and swifts everywhere.
Had a quick shower, beers and a quick look at the medieval town. I aslo washed my clothese for the first time and put clean ones on - fantastic.I have one day more with Geoff before he heads for home then I must up the anti and do more miles per day, more like 18-20 per day and I'm up for it.
Days distance 24km
(15 miles) done in 6.5 hours. Total distance 91 km (55.5 miles)
Day 5 - Tuesday 14th May 2013
Geoff's last day with me. We were going to stop at the modern town of Estella for Geoff to get his bus to San Sebastien/Hendaye. Given yesterdays sunny weather and early finish plenty of time had been allowed for re hydration. Our sleeping companions had not slept so well given the uncoordinated snoring reported. Today's plan was a relatively short walk to Estella as it was Geoff’s final day. The best laid plans were thwarted when the chosen alburgue proved less than attractive, being housed in the roof of the local leisure centre. Plan B, to stay in a small hotel further along the path, also faded when we found it to be closed. So it was we pressed on to the beautiful village of Villamayor de Monjardin completing 32 km (20 miles) for the day. Tired feet indeed but as is with life the village and alburgue were the nicest we had seen all trip. There was also a beautiful view across the plain towards Los Arcos and it was the right decision.
We drank very large beers to celebrate the best days walking to date. We had seen a really wide variety of fauna, lots of poppies and herbs of every kind. We also saw a personal favourite of mine - the Griffon Vulture which was circling, part of a larger group around us, which was a bit worrying but clearly this was their territory.
I will now start to do more miles each day, now that I've got into it but will miss Geoff as he has been an excellent friend and companion who I can argue with. Buen Camino Geoff!
Total
distance 123 km ( 75.5 miles) Only 665 km
to go.
Day 6 - Wednesday 15th May 2013
I said goodbye and Geoff backtracked to Estella to catch the bus to Irun/Hendaye to stay the night and then take the train to Biarritz for his return flight home. I walked out at 06:30 in overcast and cool weather - Geoff going in the opposite direction. I am now on my own - wow! So it was down to me now! I pressed on from Villamayor de Monjardin across predominantly flat ground, along valleys with hills either side, very green. Lots of space in front of me and behind me. I came across very few people on this section and I feel good for the first 12 miles until the Alto del Poyo incline where my left heel and right toe started to give me trouble again. Mind over matter from now on!
I had made it through Los Arcos, got over the Alto del Poyo and
was looking for a stop to rest my weary feet but could not find anywhere suitable until I got to Viana where I checked into the albergue asap. This was my longest walking day so far with 30 kms covered in 6.5 hours - good going but hard.
I have been quite amazed how good the hostels have been, clean bunks, loos, showers, washing facilities etc The bunks take me back to my army days in barracks. It is now becoming a routine to arrive, check in to a albergue, empty my rucksack, shower and then lay out the kit for the next days walk. Then... beers and food.
I have met some really decent people along the way, from all over the world but keep meeting a regular bunch along the way. Alan from Wolverhampton keeps cropping up and Richard from Canada. There is also a guy called John who lives in Spain but who was brought up in Glos, living in Slad Lane below the Air Balloon when I was growing up in Coberley - how weird is that - we even knew the same people!!
Day 7 - Thursday 16th May 2013
Today I decided to walk more slowly as it not a race after all. My feet hurt from yesterday but as I had a good nights sleep, I felt that I could push on. I left the albergue at about 07:30 and I met a lady called Sirena from Malta who I persuaded to slow down too as she was also in a hurry! We spent most of the day walking together, heading for the same destination that day, and talking passed the time very quickly. When she stopped for a long break, I pressed on and was very lucky as I got the last available place in the albergue San Surnino in Ventosa! It was fully booked and when she arrived there was no room and so she had to walk on another 10 kms, having already done 30 kms that day. What a bugger!
Still, I'm sure I'll see her again as that is the nature of the Camino i.e. running into people you've passed and been passed by. Tomorrow is meant to be very wet and windy.
Hurray, we're now in the Rioja region of Spain!
I had made it through Los Arcos, got over the Alto del Poyo and
I have been quite amazed how good the hostels have been, clean bunks, loos, showers, washing facilities etc The bunks take me back to my army days in barracks. It is now becoming a routine to arrive, check in to a albergue, empty my rucksack, shower and then lay out the kit for the next days walk. Then... beers and food.I have met some really decent people along the way, from all over the world but keep meeting a regular bunch along the way. Alan from Wolverhampton keeps cropping up and Richard from Canada. There is also a guy called John who lives in Spain but who was brought up in Glos, living in Slad Lane below the Air Balloon when I was growing up in Coberley - how weird is that - we even knew the same people!!
Day 7 - Thursday 16th May 2013
Today I decided to walk more slowly as it not a race after all. My feet hurt from yesterday but as I had a good nights sleep, I felt that I could push on. I left the albergue at about 07:30 and I met a lady called Sirena from Malta who I persuaded to slow down too as she was also in a hurry! We spent most of the day walking together, heading for the same destination that day, and talking passed the time very quickly. When she stopped for a long break, I pressed on and was very lucky as I got the last available place in the albergue San Surnino in Ventosa! It was fully booked and when she arrived there was no room and so she had to walk on another 10 kms, having already done 30 kms that day. What a bugger! Still, I'm sure I'll see her again as that is the nature of the Camino i.e. running into people you've passed and been passed by. Tomorrow is meant to be very wet and windy.
Hurray, we're now in the Rioja region of Spain!
Day 8 - Friday 17th May 2013
I set out in the rain so it was on with the poncho just like being back in the army. The going was good to soft, soft to wet, wet to muddy, muddy to rocky, rocky to firm! And just then along the way came Alan from Wolverhampton!
I pushed on through familiar looking vineyards and fields of wheat. Stunning countryside which got even better when the sun came out to show the fantastic colours.
Days ago when I was looking over this massive valley from the heights of Pamplona you could see snow on the hills - today, I have passed through them and as a treat I'm staying in the Hotel Parador in Santo Domingo. A long soak in the bath - bliss. Washed clothes, sorted my blisters and still plenty of hot water, a bed with clean sheets and no-one around me snoring and farting. How good is that?Now for a beer.
Day 9 - Saturday 18th May 2013
The walk was boring however, as it follows a motorway and a road for most of the time, switching back and forth, while passing through villages. The motorway seems very quiet compared with the UK and quickly I find myself in 'tank country' ie very flat just like Salisbury Plain. The wind is awful and I had to wear my windproof jacket all day to fend of the serious headwind.
I arrived at Belorado at 14:00 which is not too bad - 20+ kms in 6 hours and I stayed at a very basic albergue for the night.
Had a call from Tony Trigg just as I was taking a quick break during the day. I got to say hello to the Ginger Nob and John - they were off to fly at "Abertosspot". It really lifted my spirits to hear their voices! It is amazing how quiet it is on the Camino at times, until you pass through small towns and villages - sometimes you hardly see anyone, no cars.
Tonight there were Americans in the bunkhouse, two girls and a boy - others that I have met up with along the way are not to be seen, so have I burnt them off already? It was a very sociable evening and I chatted with two Israeli girls and a girl from Malta, as well as a German guy. Much wine was drunk, slept like a log.
Day 10 - Sunday 19th May 2013
After 30+ kms today my legs and feet are sore, very tired, but only one blister. My boots are soaked and I feel a little brain dead as I walked this stretch alone for most of the way. I did meet an Aussie and an Irishman over the last stretch. Only 327 miles to go!
Day 11 - Monday 20th May 2013
Just a little hill mist this morning, no rain thank goodness as I had had enough yesterday. I took it easy for the first hour as I eased into the day, then started climbing a steep stony track covered in sheep poo, but when I got to the crest there was a great view across the plain to Burgos, 18 kms away in the west. Even from this distance, it looked very large as I descended and hit a road that would lead me all the way to the city. This was hard on the feet and knees but was helped by the fact that the sun came out for the couple of hours it took me to reach the centre from the outskirts. At least I was able to take off my jacket for a while. This was a biggest place I hace seen so far and it was a bit weird. I decided to book into a cheap small hotel when I arrived at about 12:00 so that I could rest up. I had a shower and spent the rest of the afternoon in bed, before a quick dinner and back to bed - that was the plan anyway. My other plan is to do a short day tomorrow and rest up again otherwise I'll burn out!Burgos is the home of the famous El Cid. I met up with some of the people I'd met along the way and we went to a great restaurant that I'd found earlier. It was brilliant, best meal to date. We had a great night and I was christened Robin of Locksley, so I then named the Aussie, Will Scarlet, the Irish guy, Alan A'dale, the Dutch guy Little John - whatever next?
Had the opportunity to look round the cathedral in Burgos - awesome place!
Day 12 - Tuesday 21st May 2013
Oh what a lovely lie in! I rested until 09:00 had a hot shower and a good breakfast and hit the road by 10:00, feeling good so I pushed on clear of the suburbs, past the house of El Cid, a palace on the outskirts of the city. I followed a river with swarms of midges in pursuit but thankfully they were being well chased by hundreds of swallows - quite a sight. I am now on my own again with no one in sight. I now hit what is called the Meseta Plain which is just like walking over Salisbury Plain, ideal tank country. I do another 20 kms and feel ok with the Camino calling until I reach Hornillos del Camino but the three albegues are all full. However, all is not lost and I got a bunk in an overflow barn! This is very basic but is a bed for the night.
I sat in a town square with a 2 euro bottle of wine thinking how good things were going and only 300 miles to go.
Day 13 - Wednesday 22nd May 2013
I'm up and away by 07:00, sun coming out and looking good for the day. Onto the Meseta again, flat as anything. I stop at a little village for breakfast before hitting the trail again, solo. Its getting warmer but feet are sore, walking on dry stony path. I do 30 kms and I'm bushed. I find an albergue in the middle of nowhere and take the opportunity to wash and dry clothes. Two hours later the girls turn up and the beers are on me!
It's almost half way now and it seems like a lifetime since Geoff and I set off. We're still walking on the flats just now, could do with a bike to make up some miles.
Day 14 - Thursday 23rd May
A great nights sleep so I decide to let the other pilgrims get sorted first and I get up at 07:15 - this leaves only two of us out of the 25 originally in the room.Dress, pack up, hot cup of coffee and a chocolate doughnut, then hit the road. bright sunshine this morning so great start. Also a herd of fallow deer seen in the corn fields makes a good start to the day for me. Great variation in the countryside and I follow the Canal de Castillas with the vista opening up into 'Big Sky Country. It is hot, very hot now and having done 25 kms today I stop at Villarmentero de Campos so that I can have a break and sunbathe for a while.
Tomorrow should be half way so a big mental highlight. Also I'll meet up with other pilgrims I have met and we'll certainly celebrate, despite the two small blisters that are still causing concern.
Day 15 - Friday 24th May 2013
I am very vexed this morning as I could not find my guide book, my sunglasses or my reading glasses. I decided to kick on solo having arranged to meet the three girls some 25 kms further on. However, I was so miffed that I kicked on further to do 35 kms arriving at Carrion de los Condes where I was able to buy another guide book which cost me 25 euros - deep in the purse! So I had done 35 kms across a flat open plain. My feet are sore and I'm still 7kms short of half way, so will celebrate tomorrow at a place called Sahagun. I'm not sure who I'll meet up with as I'm norw starting to leave people behind. Oh well, still a long way to go. Very hot today, no cloud.
Wonderful dinner last night, met a lad from the Lake District who loves walking. He's been doing 40 kms a day over the last 8 days! Also met an Aussie who is trying to work out his 'issues'.
Day 16 - Saturday 25th May 2013
Just a short walk this morning to Sahagun which is a small town but has its own bullring. Only did 20 kms today, entering bull fighting land. My left foot was aching so this was a good day to finish early and explore the ancient town. I had a lovely afternoon. There was a market in the town, vibrant and talked with lots of Camino folks, catching up with people I'd met along the way.
I spend an hour watching bullfighting on the TV. They showed some highlights where a guy was gored through the leg, just missing his toilet tackle, very messy. Also saw the top guy perform - he was awesome, he killed the bull with his sword up to the hilt. Afterwards he was carried by the crowd to his limo. More cred than a rock star in Spain!
Then in the evening at the albergue we were staying at, there was a special treat in store. There was an evening of Spanish dancing and we could watch the show from our upstairs dormitory. We all leaned over the balcony to watch the show, stars and full moon in support.
Day 17 - Sunday 26th May 2013
I slept like a log, up at 07:00 and out, only stopping for a cup of coffee along the
I'm feeling good, rested and ready for the road on a warm day with wispy cloud. I head off across the plain, a long day in prospect. I find myself on my own again but am very content and only see one other pilgrim along the way. I'm on a tarmac road and feel that this is more comfortable than on the gravel and stony track. I also walk parallel to a railway line and take the opportunity to wave at the drivers along the way - they waving and blasting the horn twice in response. This happened 3 times and was quite uplifting!
My feet are in good condition but I am very tired. The cloud is thickening and there's a hint of rain in the air. I am also buoyed my the fact that there is another mountain range ahead, I'm bored with these flat plains.
I had another call from Tony Trigg and the boys - at least somebody loves me! I had a beer and a meal with Hermann and Joyce, two Dutch folks - very interesting and good conversation. I hit the sack and am out like a light.
Day 18 - Monday 27th May 2013
I arrive at an albergue at Villar de Mazarife, a quiet little village where I meet new pilgrims and another 30 kms under my belt.All things being equal I think I can finish this in the next 12 days - God willing!
I enjoyed the days ewalk with the wild flowers and rolling countryside. I also met four English girls from Essex, the first British girls I've met along the way. I didn't get their names but managed to blag a comb from one of them to replace mine which I'd lost 5 days previous. It's good to comb my hair again!I'm now getting fed up with the standard pilgrims fare at restaurants and albergues, depending on the size of the town or village. The menu usually costs between 9-12 euros and consists of a 3 course dinner and a bottle of wine. Unfortunately they're all pretty same-ee i.e. Soup/Salad for starter, meatballs/Pork Chop/Chips for main & flan/creme caramel/ice cream/tinned fruit for sweet. Fed up with it!
But the wine goes down well and if you're in a group, there's usually loads as some don't drink at all. Happy days!
Day 19 - Tuesday 28th May 2013
I waited until the sun was well up and didn't leave until 08:00 - the sun was well up but the wind was back with a vengeance. Yes that cold north wind and as I got closer to the mountains I could feel it and needed my windproof jacket on all day. The scenery was now improving and by afternoon it was quite pleasant with almost a Cotswold feel to it. I walked through an amazing town called Hospital de Orbigo with a wonderful wooden bridge, very medieval and wanted to stay but the Camino was calling and I pushed on to my goal for the day, the town of Astorga with a magnificent cathedral which I'll return to.
I had a poor nights sleep.
Day 20 - Wednesday 29th May 2013
I left at 07:30 with the two American girls but they quickly start to lag in the severe 25-30 mph wind and so I leave them behind, especially as I figure that the weather is going to get a lot worse.
I am proved right as 3 kms from the top the rain comes in and it is suddenly like north Wales. I know the girls will find an albergue at the bottom, but I'm lucky and get to the one at the top of the mountain in a tiny village just before the weather gets completely mental. There was a great open fire in the albergue where other pilgrims were sheltering and the dinner was a huge (and I mean huge!) paella. Everyone was laid back and we enjoyed the dinner while the storm raged outside.
The wine was flowing and then the staff put on a samba style show and then the dancing started as the wine kicked in - I was dancing with a black girl from South Africa, but by 22:00 I was again bolloxed and went to my pit. I slept until 07:00 having had one of my best nights sleep on the trip.
Day 21 - Thursday 30th May 2013
I crawled out of bed, did my usual routine, except that I have a breakfast at the albergue. Two cups of strong black coffee with bread and loads of butter and jam, cheese, chorizo and now I'm ready to go.
The storm has blown out, but the cloud is right down, the wind has dropped and it feels like being at the top of Snowdon. I set off on my own and soon start passing other pilgrims who had set off earlier. This is my sort of walking, along a ridge, along paths I like and I feel really good with feet and legs in good order. The only problem is that there is no view because of the low cloud. However, the broom, heather and herbs are plentiful and when I start to decend the path, I suddenly see a girl staring out across the heather, the cloud lifting to reveal a most spectacular view down through the valley and the plains beyond. We both laugh as we get
our cameras out - she turns out to be Nicole from Holland and we walk
together, laughing easily about people we had both met along the way. Nicole is married with three children and walks for a few weeks whenever she can. We walked together for about 4 hours to Molinaseca where she drops out to get her flight home. Today was a great walk and meeting Nicole was a treat.
I now arrive at the medieval town of Ponferrada where I booked into a hotel for 40 euros as the albergue is full. There is an amazing Templar castle here which has been restored. A beautiful place which I'd like to visit when open! Instead I have a few welcome beers, the first in a few days and have a relaxing sit in the town square.
30 kms done today, 137 (miles) to go.
Day 22 - Friday 31st May 2013
I had a good nights sleep in a double bed with nice sheets - what a change. I didn't get on the road until 08:00, unfortunately the same time as many other pilgrims. I am now in the realm of 'day' and 'coach' Camino walkers who carry little packs on their and only walk easy short stretches before getting back on the bus to do the next easy bit.
I found that I was having to walk quite a lick to get past these trippers and it took me three hours to find some space and tranquillity. The walk was mainly on roads and I eventually reached Cacabelos where the track became stony again. There were lots of beautiful vineyards now and as I progressed I was back on road but could clearly see the hills approaching and I relished the thought!
At around 13:30 I finally came to the hills at a wonderful town called Villafranca del Bierzo where I stopped for a coffee and a slice of tortilla, resting for 20 minutes while I rested my hot sore feet.
My plan was to take the old mountain track up through the gorge to Trabadelo but I missed the turn and had to take a newer track which is a 10 kms hike uphill with a river running next to it. Very fast flowing, it would be great to canoe. I eventually got to the albergue at around 16:00 and did the usual shower etc thing before beers where I met a great guy called Joost from Holland, same age as me, born the same month even. He had come up the old track and said it was spectacular.
What a pity I had missed it! Still, we both sat on the verandah sunbathing for a couple of hours, great conversation yet again. Then off for dinner after another 40 km day, only 105 (miles) to go.
I eat at a little vegetarian bar/diner and have a great dinner with soup and lasagne. I meet a young couple in their 20s, boy Czech and the girl Swedish who met a week ago. They're taking the Camino slowly to be together asa there is no job to go back to.
People seem genuinely interested in the Hammer Out effort and offer to support it financially which is brilliant. Also I mention Laurie Lee's book - When I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning. I should be on a percentage as I imagine global sales have soared since my Camino. When I get back I'll have a pint in the Woolpack and visit his grave! Promise.
Day 23 - Saturday 1st June 2013
I left at 07:30 with the two American girls but they quickly start to lag in the severe 25-30 mph wind and so I leave them behind, especially as I figure that the weather is going to get a lot worse.
I am proved right as 3 kms from the top the rain comes in and it is suddenly like north Wales. I know the girls will find an albergue at the bottom, but I'm lucky and get to the one at the top of the mountain in a tiny village just before the weather gets completely mental. There was a great open fire in the albergue where other pilgrims were sheltering and the dinner was a huge (and I mean huge!) paella. Everyone was laid back and we enjoyed the dinner while the storm raged outside.
The wine was flowing and then the staff put on a samba style show and then the dancing started as the wine kicked in - I was dancing with a black girl from South Africa, but by 22:00 I was again bolloxed and went to my pit. I slept until 07:00 having had one of my best nights sleep on the trip.
Day 21 - Thursday 30th May 2013
I crawled out of bed, did my usual routine, except that I have a breakfast at the albergue. Two cups of strong black coffee with bread and loads of butter and jam, cheese, chorizo and now I'm ready to go.
The storm has blown out, but the cloud is right down, the wind has dropped and it feels like being at the top of Snowdon. I set off on my own and soon start passing other pilgrims who had set off earlier. This is my sort of walking, along a ridge, along paths I like and I feel really good with feet and legs in good order. The only problem is that there is no view because of the low cloud. However, the broom, heather and herbs are plentiful and when I start to decend the path, I suddenly see a girl staring out across the heather, the cloud lifting to reveal a most spectacular view down through the valley and the plains beyond. We both laugh as we get
I now arrive at the medieval town of Ponferrada where I booked into a hotel for 40 euros as the albergue is full. There is an amazing Templar castle here which has been restored. A beautiful place which I'd like to visit when open! Instead I have a few welcome beers, the first in a few days and have a relaxing sit in the town square.
30 kms done today, 137 (miles) to go.
Day 22 - Friday 31st May 2013
I had a good nights sleep in a double bed with nice sheets - what a change. I didn't get on the road until 08:00, unfortunately the same time as many other pilgrims. I am now in the realm of 'day' and 'coach' Camino walkers who carry little packs on their and only walk easy short stretches before getting back on the bus to do the next easy bit.
At around 13:30 I finally came to the hills at a wonderful town called Villafranca del Bierzo where I stopped for a coffee and a slice of tortilla, resting for 20 minutes while I rested my hot sore feet.
My plan was to take the old mountain track up through the gorge to Trabadelo but I missed the turn and had to take a newer track which is a 10 kms hike uphill with a river running next to it. Very fast flowing, it would be great to canoe. I eventually got to the albergue at around 16:00 and did the usual shower etc thing before beers where I met a great guy called Joost from Holland, same age as me, born the same month even. He had come up the old track and said it was spectacular.
I eat at a little vegetarian bar/diner and have a great dinner with soup and lasagne. I meet a young couple in their 20s, boy Czech and the girl Swedish who met a week ago. They're taking the Camino slowly to be together asa there is no job to go back to.
People seem genuinely interested in the Hammer Out effort and offer to support it financially which is brilliant. Also I mention Laurie Lee's book - When I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning. I should be on a percentage as I imagine global sales have soared since my Camino. When I get back I'll have a pint in the Woolpack and visit his grave! Promise.
Day 23 - Saturday 1st June 2013
I can't believe it has been three weeks yesterday since I set off with Geoff.
I left the albergue at 07:00 in shorts and tee shirt, freezing at 4 degrees C. I was in the gorge for a long time with no sun reaching me. My hands were frozen but I had another 10 kms down this track with the river (Rio Valcarce) and the track running together, crossing each other regularly. Also the motorway is crossing the gorge above me - bizarre!
After a while the sun hits me and I warm up as ai pass through another seemingly deserted hill village called Herrerias. I don't see a soul for ages and then hit a pack of coach Camino wallahs who I pass with disdain on an uphill stretch towards O'Cebreiro through oak woods and passing spectacular views over the 7 km stretch. I am now in the province of Galicia with spectacular mountains as I now start to get tired. I decide to stay at the albergue partway down the mountain at Fonfria which is a tiny village but with a good albergue. Unfortunately there are lots staying here so more than 50 in the one room! I sleep next to the door which I open during the night - and wake up with a sore throat in the morning!
I have done a very respectable 38 kms mostly uphill so am very satisfied. 90 miles to go.
I start the day at about 07:30 after most people have left or are having breakfast. The sun is up and it is going to be a hot day with temp forecast at 25 degrees C.It is going to be a downhill walk off the mountain which turns out to have stunning views over the valley.
On my way I catch up with a 40+ couple and we walk together he (Rene) and she (Natalie) met a week ago and are now an item so we talk along the way, exchanging reasons for the walk - yes, another sale for Laurie Lee's book! We stop at a small cafe at the bottom of the hill for a quick coffee, say our goodbyes and I press on to Triacastela which resembles the Lower Lake District with lots of hills, streams, but alas no lakes. I then walk into an area which reminds me of the Cotswolds around Stroud. A little further and I'm reminded of the Brecon Beacons, walking along a beautiful ridge before I drop down once again to the valley floor and a town called Sarria.
The sun is now getting hotter and I'm feeling tired and hungry - I want sausage, eggs and chips and I#ll only stop in the town if I see a cafe that sells hat very thing! I eventually come to the old part of Sarria, up a steep narrow lane and am confronted by a collage of flowers and spruce leaves set out in amazing patterns for hundreds of yards. There are lots of people about looking at the flowers and suddenly I see the bar I'm looking for. Sausage, egg and chips and a glass of red!
I left the albergue at 07:00 in shorts and tee shirt, freezing at 4 degrees C. I was in the gorge for a long time with no sun reaching me. My hands were frozen but I had another 10 kms down this track with the river (Rio Valcarce) and the track running together, crossing each other regularly. Also the motorway is crossing the gorge above me - bizarre!After a while the sun hits me and I warm up as ai pass through another seemingly deserted hill village called Herrerias. I don't see a soul for ages and then hit a pack of coach Camino wallahs who I pass with disdain on an uphill stretch towards O'Cebreiro through oak woods and passing spectacular views over the 7 km stretch. I am now in the province of Galicia with spectacular mountains as I now start to get tired. I decide to stay at the albergue partway down the mountain at Fonfria which is a tiny village but with a good albergue. Unfortunately there are lots staying here so more than 50 in the one room! I sleep next to the door which I open during the night - and wake up with a sore throat in the morning!
I have done a very respectable 38 kms mostly uphill so am very satisfied. 90 miles to go.
Day 24 - Sunday 2nd June 2013
I start the day at about 07:30 after most people have left or are having breakfast. The sun is up and it is going to be a hot day with temp forecast at 25 degrees C.It is going to be a downhill walk off the mountain which turns out to have stunning views over the valley.On my way I catch up with a 40+ couple and we walk together he (Rene) and she (Natalie) met a week ago and are now an item so we talk along the way, exchanging reasons for the walk - yes, another sale for Laurie Lee's book! We stop at a small cafe at the bottom of the hill for a quick coffee, say our goodbyes and I press on to Triacastela which resembles the Lower Lake District with lots of hills, streams, but alas no lakes. I then walk into an area which reminds me of the Cotswolds around Stroud. A little further and I'm reminded of the Brecon Beacons, walking along a beautiful ridge before I drop down once again to the valley floor and a town called Sarria.
The sun is now getting hotter and I'm feeling tired and hungry - I want sausage, eggs and chips and I#ll only stop in the town if I see a cafe that sells hat very thing! I eventually come to the old part of Sarria, up a steep narrow lane and am confronted by a collage of flowers and spruce leaves set out in amazing patterns for hundreds of yards. There are lots of people about looking at the flowers and suddenly I see the bar I'm looking for. Sausage, egg and chips and a glass of red!
People in the bar are very excited, going to the door and looking up and down the street. As I dig into my feast, I hear the rhythmic sound of drums, like a funeral dirge, so I go to the door. Coming down the street walking over the tapestry of flowers is a religious procession, walking very slowly to the beat of the drum. A priest with incense is at the front of the procession, while four men support a canopy over another priest holding the gold Monstrance (A sacred vessel designed to expose the consecrated Host to the congregation either for adoration in church of carrying in procession, particularly on the Solemnity of the Body and Blood of Christ.) People are throwing flowers from their balconies as the procession passes.
I have another 4 kms before I reach my target albergue for the night but it is a very slow walk with a short hard climb - thankfully in the shade, but it is still very hot. I have a great view back over the town of Sarria and the surrounding hills. Very Stroud like. I reach the bunkhouse and shower, have a beer and I'm soon chatting to an Israeli girl and three girls from Martinique - all laughing. We have dinner together and it turns out they're all in their 50s, all married and all are running fanatics, doing the London Marathon in 3 hrs 20-40 mins. Now they're walking 40 kms each day!
I've done 30 kms today and have about 70 miles to do!
Day 25 - Monday 3rd June 2013
The girls are all up at about 05:30 and away by 06:00. They wake me so I decide to have an early start and leave at 06:30 with a cold and a bit of a sore throat. I down a couple of Paracetamol and Jules's vitamin tablets as the sun comes up and step out into the quiet, pleasant morning. I soon warm up and I have my hill walking legs back, crossing what reminds me of the Cotswold Way between Chipping Camden and Cheltenham, but 10 times better.
I fall into a fast pace and after a hour or so, I stop in a little village in the hills for a cafe where I meet the girls who have stopped for a while until it warms up a little. After a coffee and cake, I say goodbye and get onto the track again, no-one in sight on this glorious morning. I pass through lots of hill farms similar to those in Wales - the smell of the countryside, cow shit permeates the air. Wonderful. The morning passes very quickly and my legs and feet feel good.
The Way winds its way along small valleys and ridges and for the first time since leaving St Jean I actually feel that I am on holiday! I soon reach the lovely town of Portomarin, perched on a hill overlooking a
reservoir. I stock up at the supermarket and have a pleasant lunch at a shady spot overlooking this massive lake. This is the longest I've stopped to rest so far, but the Way calls me so I set off again. I climb once more into the hills and it takes on the look of the Forest of Dean but much hotter!
Despite the cold I have I want to make good distance today and eventually arrive at Eirexe but decide to push on an extra couple of kms and reach Portos and book into the little albergue. A great day of walking despite the cold shower and I take the opportunity to wash my pants/vest etc as they are a bit minging.
No sign of the girls!
Day 25 - Tuesday 4th June 2013
The 'walk from hell' is the only way to describe today!
It started well enough as I started at 07:30 with the cocks crowing and finished at 19:30 with the cocks crowing! 12 hours of slog up hill and down dale - I felt like the 'Grand Old Duke of York' amongst the hoards of day trippers and coach Caminos. It was very busy! It only started to thin out at a town called Melide where I pick up my lunch. I thought it would be a nice afternoon stroll to Arzua according to the map. It looked about 5 kms from Ribadiso but was in fact 15kms which made my day's efforts 48 kms in total and I am bolloxed.
No vino tonight, only water and still 21 kms to go to Santiago - all being well I'll be there tomorrow and if I can get a Ryanair ticket, I'll be home Friday. No photos today, too bolloxed!
Day 26 - Wednesday 5th June 2013
Last Day! Didn't sleep a wink last night as the room was very hot and as usual, no window open. I ached to hell and sweated all night. I topped up on dyralite and water and when I did get on the road at about 07:30 I was soon back into the rhythm. Only 21 kms to go and the morning is fresh and warm. The sun is up and I drift along with a steady stream of pilgrims heading through the outskirts of Santiago. It feels very strange, being almost there as I head into the city and when I reach the old town and see the cathedral, it is with a huge sense of relief. I finally enter the square in front of the cathedral and it's over! I ask a girl to take my photo in front of the steps and I reflect for a while, then move on to find an albergue for the next two nights.
The only thing that marred the finish was a demonstration by the square which was peaceful but very noisy. I called Jules once I'd booked into the Albergue Boots n Roots and after a good shower and change I head off to find a bus to the airport to buy my ticket home. They have a great efficient bus service and I'm at the airport in half an hour and I'm lucky! Only two tickets left but the ticket home costs me deep in the purse from Rip off Ryanair. At last I can relax having got my ticket so I head back into the old town for a well earned beer. The city is vibrant and I sit at a table in a great part of the town watching the world go by.
I think about those people that I had met along the Way and those who I would have liked to share this moment with, but I always thought I'd be on my own when I finally got there. Later I find a great tapas bar where I eat before going back to the albergue to have a glass of red watching the sun go down. Tomorrow I'll have a good look around the town, go and get my certificate (Compostela) proving that I've walked the Camino and then I can be a tourist.
Thursday 6th June 2013
Amazing, I've just run into Richard, a Canadian I met right at the beginning of the Way. Also other people, but that's the nature of the Camino. I have just queued up for my Compostela and at the top of the stairs where the lady takes your Camino book with the albergue stamps, the lady cries out "Dustin has arrived!" Apparently the word was out that Dustin Hoffman was doing the Way!
I have just visited the cathedral and the famous incense burner and rope. Very big as is the cathedral itself. Well worth a visit. The old town is full of bars, restaurants & cafes. Plus lots of souvenir shops all selling the same thing, very commercial. I have just found a good bar selling a pint for one euro - best yet! I'm looking for a bar for lunch but spoilt for choice as the weather turns cold again and the sun hides. My afternoon was spent walking around the old town, drinking wine and eating tapas - wonderful being a tourist and after all of that, if anyone asked me what it is like to do the Way, I'd say "Life Changing".
Postscript.
Whilst walking through what I described as the Cotswolds, there were large numbers of shrines of all shapes and sizes, marking deaths along the way. There are crosses and plinths all decorated with items such as pictures, ribbons, necklaces, socks, hats, stones and everything you could think of. In one place there was a linked metal fence that went on for about 500 metres through the wood and people had threaded dead wooden branches of all shapes and sizes into crosses through the mesh. It reminded me of what the Appian Way must have looked like when the Romans crucified all of Spartacus's followers. Very strange thought.
Camino Likes
Camino Dislikes
My thanks go to the following in my life...
I have another 4 kms before I reach my target albergue for the night but it is a very slow walk with a short hard climb - thankfully in the shade, but it is still very hot. I have a great view back over the town of Sarria and the surrounding hills. Very Stroud like. I reach the bunkhouse and shower, have a beer and I'm soon chatting to an Israeli girl and three girls from Martinique - all laughing. We have dinner together and it turns out they're all in their 50s, all married and all are running fanatics, doing the London Marathon in 3 hrs 20-40 mins. Now they're walking 40 kms each day!
I've done 30 kms today and have about 70 miles to do!
Day 25 - Monday 3rd June 2013
I fall into a fast pace and after a hour or so, I stop in a little village in the hills for a cafe where I meet the girls who have stopped for a while until it warms up a little. After a coffee and cake, I say goodbye and get onto the track again, no-one in sight on this glorious morning. I pass through lots of hill farms similar to those in Wales - the smell of the countryside, cow shit permeates the air. Wonderful. The morning passes very quickly and my legs and feet feel good.The Way winds its way along small valleys and ridges and for the first time since leaving St Jean I actually feel that I am on holiday! I soon reach the lovely town of Portomarin, perched on a hill overlooking a
Despite the cold I have I want to make good distance today and eventually arrive at Eirexe but decide to push on an extra couple of kms and reach Portos and book into the little albergue. A great day of walking despite the cold shower and I take the opportunity to wash my pants/vest etc as they are a bit minging.
No sign of the girls!
Day 25 - Tuesday 4th June 2013
The 'walk from hell' is the only way to describe today!
It started well enough as I started at 07:30 with the cocks crowing and finished at 19:30 with the cocks crowing! 12 hours of slog up hill and down dale - I felt like the 'Grand Old Duke of York' amongst the hoards of day trippers and coach Caminos. It was very busy! It only started to thin out at a town called Melide where I pick up my lunch. I thought it would be a nice afternoon stroll to Arzua according to the map. It looked about 5 kms from Ribadiso but was in fact 15kms which made my day's efforts 48 kms in total and I am bolloxed.
No vino tonight, only water and still 21 kms to go to Santiago - all being well I'll be there tomorrow and if I can get a Ryanair ticket, I'll be home Friday. No photos today, too bolloxed!
Day 26 - Wednesday 5th June 2013
Last Day! Didn't sleep a wink last night as the room was very hot and as usual, no window open. I ached to hell and sweated all night. I topped up on dyralite and water and when I did get on the road at about 07:30 I was soon back into the rhythm. Only 21 kms to go and the morning is fresh and warm. The sun is up and I drift along with a steady stream of pilgrims heading through the outskirts of Santiago. It feels very strange, being almost there as I head into the city and when I reach the old town and see the cathedral, it is with a huge sense of relief. I finally enter the square in front of the cathedral and it's over! I ask a girl to take my photo in front of the steps and I reflect for a while, then move on to find an albergue for the next two nights.
The only thing that marred the finish was a demonstration by the square which was peaceful but very noisy. I called Jules once I'd booked into the Albergue Boots n Roots and after a good shower and change I head off to find a bus to the airport to buy my ticket home. They have a great efficient bus service and I'm at the airport in half an hour and I'm lucky! Only two tickets left but the ticket home costs me deep in the purse from Rip off Ryanair. At last I can relax having got my ticket so I head back into the old town for a well earned beer. The city is vibrant and I sit at a table in a great part of the town watching the world go by.
I think about those people that I had met along the Way and those who I would have liked to share this moment with, but I always thought I'd be on my own when I finally got there. Later I find a great tapas bar where I eat before going back to the albergue to have a glass of red watching the sun go down. Tomorrow I'll have a good look around the town, go and get my certificate (Compostela) proving that I've walked the Camino and then I can be a tourist.
Thursday 6th June 2013
I have just visited the cathedral and the famous incense burner and rope. Very big as is the cathedral itself. Well worth a visit. The old town is full of bars, restaurants & cafes. Plus lots of souvenir shops all selling the same thing, very commercial. I have just found a good bar selling a pint for one euro - best yet! I'm looking for a bar for lunch but spoilt for choice as the weather turns cold again and the sun hides. My afternoon was spent walking around the old town, drinking wine and eating tapas - wonderful being a tourist and after all of that, if anyone asked me what it is like to do the Way, I'd say "Life Changing".Postscript.
Whilst walking through what I described as the Cotswolds, there were large numbers of shrines of all shapes and sizes, marking deaths along the way. There are crosses and plinths all decorated with items such as pictures, ribbons, necklaces, socks, hats, stones and everything you could think of. In one place there was a linked metal fence that went on for about 500 metres through the wood and people had threaded dead wooden branches of all shapes and sizes into crosses through the mesh. It reminded me of what the Appian Way must have looked like when the Romans crucified all of Spartacus's followers. Very strange thought.
Camino Likes
- The people you meet along the Way;
- The Magnificent scenery;
- The wine and food;
- The oliteness and generosity of locals;
- The pure escapism for mind and body;
- The challenge & motivation of raising money for Hammer Out which does great work to support families and suffers of brain tumours;
- The support from friends back home
Camino Dislikes
- Camino flu staying in hot sweaty albergues with windows closed;
- The coach and day Caminos;
- People who walk with with ski sticks with metal tips - click, clack, click, clack
My thanks go to the following in my life...
- To my training as a boy soldier in the ISL, Oswestry, Shropshire - taught me how to walk long distances and deal with it mentally
- To my Merrell boots - brilliant
- To my rucksac - outstanding
- Finally to my gorgeous wife and son for all their support and allowing me to do the Way
